Wat Rong Khun - Chiang Rai - Wat Rong Khun. Photo by whitecat
sgA hybrid of all that is fervently religious and much of what is modern sci-fi, the
White Temple of Chiang Rai, in Thailand’s northern region,
is one of the most spectacular and eccentric sites in the entire country, if not the entire planet. Regarded as
over-the-top, surreal, and downright bizarre, this contemporary temple was designed and built by a local visual artist
who blended traditional Thai Buddhist architecture, with an utterly surreal version of pop culture.
Chalermchai Kositpipat , the man
behind the vision and construction (and present owner), created his masterpiece in 1997 and has allowed free access to
the public ever since its inception. Revered and abhorred in equal measure, the Wat Rong Khun, as the
‘temple’ is officially known, is certainly a sight to behold and should not be missed by anyone travelling to Chiang
Rai. Due to a recent earthquake which caused some minor damage, the temple’s interior is temporarily closed for repair
work, yet the 14km side trip from Chiang Rai is still very much a worthwhile exercise.
Wat Rong Khun. Photo by Jan
AlbrechtKositpipa built his other-worldly temple atop an already existing, yet
hopelessly decrepit, wat. This was meant to be his offering to Buddha and he believes the creation has granted him
immortal life. Wat Rong Khun is a work in progress and completion of the project is not expected for at least
another five decades. The self-funded artist, who accepts only modest donations, has so far invested the equivalent of
1.3 million USD into his work of art. Eventually, he plans to build a working monastery on the property adjacent to the
temple, where monks can live and practice their faith.
Kositpipa has been called everything from genius
to lunatic, and after spending a few hours exploring his treasured artwork, most visitors come away with the impression
that he is probably a little of both. Do bring sunglasses if visiting on a particularly sunny day. Much like Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni, staring at the temple for too long can
seriously damage one’s retina.
In
order to reach the temple, one must cross an intricately carved bridge which crosses a moat, in front of which you’ll
see countless sculptures of outreaching arms; meant to represent unabashed desire. The bridge is a symbolic gateway to
heaven, which one can only reach if one foregoes all temptations of greed, desire, and lust.
At
Kositpipa’s version of the Pearly
Gates ,
you’ll see two enormous statues, representing Death and Fate, which will mark your entry to the main temple. Inside,
instead of the usual and obviously far-too-mainstream scenes of Buddhist good VS evil, you’ll be greeted by images
inspired by modern events, science fiction, and modern pop culture. Everyone from Spiderman, Batman, Michael Jackson,
and even the Matrix are depicted in the surreal paintings, and if you spend a moment to search, you’ll also find an
image depicting the destructive events of 9/11. There’s also an ultra cool Star-Wars-type scene depicting Armageddon
in splendidly vibrant colors. In stark contrast sit two angelic-looking Buddha statues, adorned with pretty flowers and
surrounded by peaceful-looking deities. The representation of good and evil on our planet, although depicted quite
erratically, is nonetheless very powerful.
Wat Rong Khun. Photo by Brian Jeffery
BeggerlyThe exterior of the main temple is decorated with mosaics of mirrored tiles,
and at least this section remains somewhat true to Buddhist architecture, as the wat boasts a multi-tiered roof and
innumerable serpent statues.
The public restroom is itself a work of art, having earned the moniker of
the Golden Toilet. If the White Temple represents the mind and soul, then the golden restrooms represent the
body and all of its worldly greed.
Aside Phra Usobot, or main temple, you’ll see gables,
pagodas, ordination, and recitation halls, as well as a museum and gallery showcasing Kositpipa’s multitude of
artworks.
Latest Mishap
A powerful earthquake hit the region on the 5th May 2014, damaging a
few of the structures and the main temple in particular. At time of writing, visitors are only allowed to enter the
compound and admire the White Temple from the outside, yet the interior is supposed to be accessible again by the end of
2015.
Wat Rong Kun is open every day from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
How to Get There
The temple is located on the RHS of Highway 1, about 14km south-west of Chiang Rai. You could either hire a tuk-tuk for a few hours, join one of the many tour groups
which depart daily from town or, for a more affordable option, simply hop on the platform 8 bus, but do ask the driver
first. A one way ride costs just ฿20 ($0.62).
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